Skovshoved

Danish cosiness and the Skovshoved marina don't have much in common. In the typical suburban harbour, hardly anything reminds us that it was once the domain of fishermen. However, a pleasant surprise awaits on the other side of the Copenhagen-Helsingborg artery, where many a fisherman's cottage still "tells" of the days at the end of the 19th century when the women went to the fish market in Copenhagen at dawn with their husbands' catches of fish. As they did so, they pulled wheelbarrows filled with fish behind them along the ten-kilometre route.

The poverty of the past is hard to imagine today, as wealthy Copenhageners have discovered Skovshoved as a place to live, surrounding the remaining fishermen's cottages from the old days with their villas and new buildings. A stylish mixture of old buildings and houses of the upscale lifestyle sometimes leaves you speechless. This also applies to many other buildings along the Sound between Copenhagen and Helsingør. You don't talk about the sea view, you have it. In any case, you can't help but think that the harness racing track, which is located about 1000 metres southwest of the harbour, fits in here. Also the hospital and sanatorium "Hvidøre", with its art nouveau figures, 500 metres northwest of the moorings, fits seamlessly into the appealing architectural landscape (with the exception of the harbour), as does Charlottenlund Castle, south of the racecourse, with its beautiful castle park.

According to the narrative, Copenhagen's nobility first became interested in the site in the early 1600s, when King Frederik III gave a small animal enclosure to a favourite of Queen Sophie Amalie, Baron Jakob Petersen. Petersen, who was originally a chamber servant, made it to nobility through his special skills.

He set up an inn with a pleasure garden, but it lasted only a short time. After the next owner, Ulrik Frederik Gyldenløve, had created a romantic summer house in the forest, the royal house itself showed interest in "Gyldenlund" and had the summer house converted into a festival pavilion. Frederik IV extended "Gyldenlund" for his son Crown Prince Christian. In 1730 it finally served as a summer palace for Princess Charlotte Amalie. She not only gave the castle two side wings and a domed tower, but also her name.

Today, the administrations of Denmark's marine research institutes have set up shop in the royal walls. The location seems to have been chosen with care, as at the foot of the castle complex is the impressive "Danmarks Akvarium", where more than 3000 marine animals from all over the world can be seen in over 50 aquariums. It also includes an aquarium with pond animals, keeping toads, frogs, salamanders and even insects.

Back to the old village encircled by mansions, which still has its charm. A number of colourful, small, old cottages of various designs have survived the land hunger of speculators. Even the historic "Skovshoved Hotel" still stands - with vinstue (wine bar) and billiard room, but without the view of the Sound enjoyed at the Royal Sailing Club's clubhouse by the harbour.

All in all, Skovshoved is something to behold. There's plenty to see in the old village, the villa area, the harness racing track and the Bellevue Theatre, which is halfway (just over two kilometres north) to our next port, quaint Taarbæk. Minus point of Skovshoved, however, is the Helsingborg-Copenhagen traffic artery, which separates the village from the harbour and takes away some of the atmosphere of the "villa town"